![]() ![]() But Yau Lum Moy didn’t come for factory work. One of the earliest contingents of Chinese laborers, in fact, had arrived 50 years before, recruited to replace striking workers at a shoe manufacturer in the Berkshires. In the 1920s, Chinese immigrants were a growing presence all throughout the Bay State. He got his start not in Boston’s Chinatown, but in Worcester, an hour’s drive west in central Massachusetts. Moy’s great-grandfather, Yau Lum Moy, was the first in the family to immigrate to Massachusetts from Guangdong, known at the time to Westerners as Canton. And customers who spent the summer picking up bags of takeout were delighted to see Shojo reopen for dining in mid-September, with heaters added in October. Moy added some of the greatest hits from Ruckus - like braised short ribs on rice noodles - to the menu. Shojo started taking online orders a month later, offering items like Wu Tang Ribs and Shojonator, a quarter-pound burger tucked into a sesame bao bun with kimchi-cheese sauce and shaved scallions. You just don’t know until you open, so that’s the scary part.”īut the faithful have been lining up at China Pearl for shrimp-and-chive dumplings, spareribs in black bean sauce, and beef chow fun since July, when it reopened for takeout. “We don’t know what the revenue is going to be, and how many people are going to be able to come. “It’s tough to come back to business even now,” acknowledges the Massachusetts native. Still, he will admit that the coronavirus pandemic left him uncharacteristically shaken. Moy himself has worked tirelessly to maintain his family’s legacy while moving forward with Chinatown projects of his own. They survived the SARS virus crisis in 2003, dug out from New England blizzards, and adapted as luxury high-rise developments sprang up all around them. ![]() Moy, 36, will tell you that, like so many other entrepreneurs in this historic downtown neighborhood, his family has weathered tough times. But in Oakland, a New Generation Has Answers. The Ultimate Guide to Brooklyn’s Chinatown, According to Stephanie Shih.One Family’s Story, From Toisan to Wichita.The Resy Guide to Manhattan Chinatown, By Those Who Love It Best.In the before times, Moy’s establishments were easily the only venues in Chinatown where Ludacris, Lil Wayne, and Naughty by Nature played in heavy rotation, a soundtrack for patrons tucking into bowls of ramen and bibim guksu. Next door is Ruckus, a fast-casual noodle bar inspired by Moy’s love of pasta. Giant illustrated chrysanthemums-done in a graffiti style-frame the front windows. On the ground floor is Shojo, Moy’s own gastropub and cocktail bar. A pair of Corinthian columns on the second floor are painted gold, set against a fire-engine-red facade. Of course, if you frequented the place prior to 1960, back when the building housed a dance hall serving chop suey and lo mein, you would hardly recognize it today. ![]() That includes China Pearl, the Moys’ 60-year-old dim sum destination on Tyler Street, which holds the distinction of being the city’s oldest Chinatown restaurant still in operation. Since age 6, Brian Moy has spent his weekends, holidays, and summers at his family’s restaurants in Boston’s Chinatown. ![]()
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